Peter Schroeder
 

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12.05.2020

Dinner mit Francoise und Pablo

Bistro, Restaurant und Brasserien, sicher kein Mangel in Paris. Der Appetit muss nicht lange anhalten, es stellt sich vielleicht die Frage, wie der Reisende es anstellt, ihn zu stillen. Sicher kann man einfach durch die Arrondissements flanieren und spontan einkehren, was aber, wie wir sehen werden, das Risiko birgt, ohne Reservation entweder keinen Tisch zu bekommen oder in einer langen Schlange auf denselben zu warten. Also ein anderer Zugang und der ergab sich eher zufällig durch Francoise Gilots „Leben mit Picasso“ mit drei Etablissements, die gut in den eigen Reiseablauf passen.

Dennoch starten wir mit einer Enttäuschung. Francoise Gilot, damals 21 lernte 1943 den vierzig Jahre älteren Pablo Picasso im Catalan in der Rue des Grand Augustins kennen. Picasso saß mit seiner damaligen Gefährtin, im zeitgenössischen Wortschatz Muse und Geliebte, Dora Maar beim Abendessen. Sein Atelier lag in der Nachbarschaft derselben Straße, in einem Haus, das der Gerichtsvollzieher-Vereinigung gehörte, einem Berufsstand, der Picasso sicherlich fremd war. Aus diesem Moment, weitere sind mit Zärtlichkeit beschrieben, entwickelte sich eine langjährige Beziehung, die erst 1953 endete. Heute gibt es das Catalan, das nur in einer kurzen Periode von 1944-1952 der Pariser Boheme Heimstatt gab, längst nicht mehr, der Sinn stand uns nicht nach asiatischer Küche, die sich hier jetzt angesiedelt hat.

Eine Straßenecke weiter passierten wir eine schmucklose Glasfront mit einem großartigen Austernangebot. Der Zerberus, der hinter der Theke Austern öffnet, fragt uns mit gewisser Ablehnung nach unserer Reservierung, sein Patron lädt uns aber ein, Platz zu nehmen. Außer uns essen noch zwei ältere Damen und eine Japanerin und, nachdem wir an einem Tisch mit nackter Blechplatte Platz nehmen durften, ist die Austernbar hier gut gefüllt. Bald liegt die Speisekarte vor uns und wir lesen so gestabte Namen wie Fin de Claire Verte, Spéciales Perle Blanche oder Gillardeau und Belons*Prat Ar Coum*, die beiden letzteren aus der Normandie oder Bretagne. Mit halbem Ohr hören wir, wie der Patron unsere Nachbarinnen zu einer Degustation von drei Sorten überlistet und auch wir haben keine Chance, eine eigene Wahl zu treffen. Dazu noch ein La Tranche De Saumon Fumé und die georderte Demi-Bouteille, es ist Lunch-Zeit, ist während des Servierens auf eine ganze Flasche Sancerre gewachsen. Tatsächlich steigert sich der Genuss von den Fines de Claire über Fines de Claire Verte zu den Perl Blanche; in dieser Reihenfolge wurde der Verzehr empfohlen. Auch der wird überwacht und, nimmt man nur die Gabel und lässt den Stiel stehen, folgt eine Belehrung, dass man gefälligst mit dem Messer das Austernfleisch direkt von der Muschel zu schneiden habe, mit einem Moment des Bedauerns über die Benachteiligung des Linkshänders. Nach Überstehen dieser Trainingsphase wird sofort Ersatz angeboten und selbstverständlich am Ende nachgefragt, ob man mit Reihenfolge und Qualität einverstanden sei. Den Abschluss bildet nur ein Café, auch wenn die angeblich italienische Gattin des Patrons ein hervorragendes Tiramisu zubereiten soll.

Schlechtes Wetter veranlasste Picasso und Francoise Gilot, einen großen Teil eines Winters im Süden Frankreichs zu verbringen. Am Abend vor der Abfahrt entspann sich beim Abendessen in der Brasserie Lipp, Picassos Chauffeur Marcel sollte sie um sechs Uhr in der Früh abholen, eine Diskussion über den Sinn der Reise. Schon das frühe Aufstehen schien für Picasso Grund genug zu sein, das Unternehmen abzublasen. Er hielt sich eine Weile damit auf, Catherine seine `Philosophie Merdeuse` zu erläutern. Die Auseinandersetzung endet mit Tränen, verbunden mit Picassos Worten „Du weinst, weil du etwas willst“. Schließlich einigte man sich auf die Reise in voller Verantwortung von Francoise.

Die beiden werden im Erdgeschoss der Brasserie gesessen haben, für sie sicher ohne Bedeutung, für den gemeinen Reisenden aber ein Kunststück. Schon ein Reiseführer ergänzt seine Bemerkungen mit dem Hinweis, dass „weniger bedeutende“ Gäste im ersten Stock untergebracht werden. Um das Einlass-System ranken sich Geschichten wie: „Warten Sie eine halbe Stunde und nehmen derweil einen Aperitif“ und ein Tisch scheint sicher - „Sie werden eine Stunde der länger warten müssen“ bedeutet, sich besser nach einem anderen Etablissement umzusehen. Dank Reservierung für eine mit 19:00 frühe Stunde gehören wir zu den „Bedeutenden“ und erhalten einen der üblichen Zweiertische an der rechtsseitigen Wand. Nun nimmt man nicht einfach Platz, sondern wird vom Maître akzeptiert, dann von einem ersten Kellner an seinen Tisch geführt, wo eine hübsche Afro-Französin in schwarzes Kleid und weißer Schürze - es fehlt nur das Servierhäubchen, um die Zeitreise zurück zu Picassos Aufenthalt anzutreten - die Garderobe übernimmt. Der Kellner rückt den Tisch vor, um der Dame den Weg zu ihrem Platz zu richten, der einen guten Überblick über die Brasserie ermöglicht und bald feststellen lässt, dass die Schlange wartender Gäste durch das halbe Restaurant bis zu Tür reicht. Über uns ein Pappschild, das den Herren in gewähltem Französisch untersagt, ihre Hunde während der Besatzung zu füttern und das Schecks nicht akzeptiert werden. Ein zweiter Kellner bringt die Karte, fragt, ob ein Wunsch nach Wasser oder Aperitif besteht und nimmt später die Bestellung entgegen. Der dritte, nicht nur wegen seines Schnauzbartes ein wenig missmutig erscheinend, taut glücklicherweise im Laufe der Speisefolge auf. Zunächst helfen aber zwei Coupé de Champagne beim Studium der ausschließlich französischen Speisekarte, sehr traditionell aber schon nicht mehr so traditionell, dass eine preislose Damenkarte gereicht wird. Währenddessen nimmt am Nachbartisch ein distinguiertes französisches Ehepaar um die 80 Platz, erlesen gekleidet und ebenso erlesen schauend. Madame bestellt ein Steak mit Sauce Bernies und frischen Haricot Vert, dazu ein Glas Rotwein, Monsieur ein Choucroute spéciale LIPP, au jarret de porc, dazu ein hauseigenes Bier. Die Speisekarte ist deftig, elsässisch und hat sich, so möchte man meinen, seit der Gründung 1880 durch Leonard Lipp nicht verändert.  Nicht ganz so alt ist die Art-Déco-Einrichtung mit den großen Spiegeln, den Lederbänken und der Keramiktäfelung, die 1926 eingeführt wurde. Die Decke ist mit afrikanischen Motiven von Charles Garrey ausgemalt worden, der Keramik-Künstler Léon Farge entwarf die Wandkacheln mit exotischen Pflanzen und Papageien.

Wir entschieden uns, es ist ein Montag, für die Plats du jour Lundi - Pavé de boeuf au oivre und Haddock poché au beurre blanc und wundern uns ein wenig, eine angelsächsische Bezeichnung für Schellfisch, der im französischen Églefin heißt, zu finden. Immerhin sind wir froh, nicht Melanogrammus aeglefinus lesen zu müssen und Haddock entpuppt sich schließlich als landesübliche Bezeichnung für die geräucherte Variante. Mit Spannung erwarten wir die Vorspeise, die wir uns teilen wollen. Sardine millésimées aus der Collection 2011/2016 klingt zu fantastisch als dass es sich um Ölsardinen handeln könnte, aber tatsächlich wird uns eine auf einem Teller umgedrehte Sardinenbüchse serviert und nachdem im Sinne eines Menu surprise das Geheimnis gelüftet ist, schmecken wir äußerst zarte Fische.

Für einen zweiten Kaffee und Digestif wechseln wir auf die andere Straßenseite des Boulevard Saint-Germain ins Café de Flore. Auch hier, ebenso wie im benachbarten Deux Magots, tranken Picasso und Francoise Gilot ihren Cafe creme. Wir nehmen unter einem der Infrarotstrahler draußen Platz, geraucht wird noch viel in der Pariser Öffentlichkeit und das unverminderte Gewusel nimmt uns in seinen Bann.

Picasso nimmt Francoise eines Tages mit in das Musée de Cluny, dem jetzigen Musée National du Moyen Âge, um ihr den Miffelfeurs-Wandbehag mit der Dame mit dem Einhorn zu zeigen. Sie treffen dort auf Dora Maar und Picasso beschließt, mit aktueller und verflossener Freundin zum Essen ins Chez Francis an der Place de l´ Alma zu gehen. Dora Maar würdigt die Gelegenheit mit Kaviar und, als man sich verabschiedet und Picasso zu ihr meint, er brauche sie nicht heimzubringen, da sie ja ein erwachsenes Mädchen sei, ist ihre Replik, sie schaffe das allein, er hingegen müsse sich auf die Jugend stützen - der Altersunterschied zwischen den Damen war14 Jahre.

Das Chez Francis gilt als berühmtes und luxuriöse - elégant et raffiné - Pariser Brasserie im Herzen des goldenen Dreiecks im 8.Arrondisement, mit Blick auf den Eiffelturm. Während Picasso sich und seine Damen von Chauffeur Marcel hatte bringen lassen, auf der Ponte d´Alma, die Seine überquerend, steigen wir aus der Metro und stehen vor der roten Neonbeleuchtung der Brasserie auf der vollbesetzten und, wie es heißt, mythischen Terrasse. Wir ziehen zum Essen, es ist November und abendlich feucht, einen Platz im Inneren vor.  Zur Vorspeise ein Salmon Tartaren mit Pomegranate et Labneh, letzter ein libanesischer Frischkäse auf der Basis von Joghurt. Als Hauptgericht zum einen Kalbsleber, deren Zartheit dem Tartar in nichts nachsteht und gegrillter Kabeljau auf Zitronengrass und Kokosmilch, und angesichts des Vorhabens, entlang des Quay d´Orsay einen Teils des Weges ins Hotel zu Fuß zurückzulegen, belassen wir es bei einer halben Flasche St.Emilion - Grand Cru aus dem Chateau Berry.

Man muss sich darüber im Klaren sein, dass heute nicht mehr das Flair in den besuchten Restaurants herrscht, das sie berühmt gemacht haben und zu den heutigen Anziehungspunkten hat werden lassen. Picasso, Chagall, Hemingway, Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir sind längst tot, die hochbetagte Francois Gilot verirrt sich vermutlich selten hierher. Der Preis für einen Espresso würde in Italien einen Generalstreik auslösen.  Dennoch kann man auf der Lederbank oder dem Bistro-Stuhl zurücksinken, für einen Moment die Augen schließen, sich gedanklich von der Musik Miles Davis und Juliet Greco, die in diesem Quartier eine kurze Affäre hatten, davontragen lassen, das Essen, da hatten wir Glück genießen, und an die herrliche Literatur und Kunst denken, die hier entstanden ist.

Weil dem so ist, noch ein kurzer Ausflug in die Rue des Sevres in die Gegend des Hôpital Necker-Enfants malades, gut anderthalb Kilometer vom Boulevard entfernt und ebenso weit vom Besucherstrom. Das Le Petit Lutetia ist ein kleines, über Jahre kaum verändertes Restaurant, nicht in die Jahre gekommen. Paneel, gefärbtes Glas und einige Gemälde, lediglich das Personal ist über die Jahre jünger geworden. Am Abend unserer Ankunft in Paris ergattern wir einen Tisch mit der Maßgabe, in anderthalb Stunden beim Cafe angekommen zu sein und einer Verhandlungsrunde, dass dies nur bei flottem Service möglich sei, gekontert mit der Aufforderung, nicht allzu langsam zu essen, starten wir mit einer Terrine Foie Gras, die als Vorspeise für einen Einzelnen gedacht ist, aber durchaus eine Familie sättigen kann. Steak Entrecote und Ente haben Qualität, waren perfekt zubereitet und der Sancerre Rouge vielleicht eine Spur zu leicht fürs Essen, nicht für den Weg durch die Pariser Nacht.

Peter Schroeder - 07:51 @ Allgemein, Panorama | 251 Kommentare

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